The ferry departed leaving us alone at the roadside. Puffed up clouds filled the sky and a cold breeze set an ominous tone for the beginning of our journey. Reluctantly we stripped to our underwear, clambered over the rocks and fell gracelessly into the sea.
The electrifying tingle of cold salt water rippled up my body and lifted my cheeks into a smile. This was the Pacific coast of Chile. Our next taste of seawater would come from the Argentinian Atlantic. We would get there on foot.
Towelled down we extended our walking poles, shouldered our heavy packs and started walking.
It had taken three planes, four buses, one boat and a series of long waits for hitch-hikes over several days to get here. We were eager to begin. We talked excitedly about how good it felt for our progress to be once more determined by our own efforts and not by transport schedules or the good will of strangers. It was clear too that nerves underlay our excitement. We had a stiff marching schedule for the next 48 hours if we wanted to reach the next ferry on time: close to 100km.
Sunset came early on that first day and there was little doubt that we both would have kept walking if enthusiasm made the decision rather than daylight. A wide clearing presented itself and we pitched our tiny tent in the middle of it. The wind blew and the flysheet went taut.
It is hard to convey the joy to be found in the simplicity of cooking your own dinner on a fold-away stove, sheltered in the porch of a tent. It will not be as good as a restaurant meal and it will be not be as comfortable as eating at home but it will be better than both.