A decade-long desire to visit Greenland and the allure of journeying by boat into virgin territory to attempt unclimbed peaks, two or more days away from civilisation, is what inspired us to set our sights on Timmiarmiut, an area of fjords, granite walls, peaks and spires 300km south of Tasiilaq, East Greenland.
Throughout the planning we were lucky enough to be in correspondence with Hans Christian Florian, a Tasiilaq-based doctor and joint author of The Unknown Mountains Of East Greenland. Hans was instrumental in arranging plans with Salomon Gadeegard, a skipper and skilled hunter based in nearby Iqortoq, to take us to this little-explored stretch of coastline. However, a week before departure came the news that given the predicted sea and weather conditions we would not be able to reach Timmiarmiut safely and therefore Salomon refused to take us any farther south than the Umiivik region, approximately 100km north of Timmiarmiut.
We learnt later that the underwater topography and exposure to the open sea changes significantly at Umiivik meaning there would have been a considerable risk of erratic waves and high seas that could swamp the boat. Given the unforgiving cold seas, our quarter ton of food and equipment and a cabin so small that two of us would have had to stand on open deck, it would have been reckless to venture south.
Hitherto we had considered late-season pack ice as the main inhibiting factor to reaching Timmiarmiut and were unaware that the temperament of the Greenlandic seas could also drown our plans. Even our alternative destination of Skjoldungen which was first explored for climbing by Mike Libecki, was out of safe reach and I began to wonder if the last ten months was just a fruitless exercise in planning and dreaming.
We spent the next few days frantically re-doing our research; scouring old journals, maps, geo-tagged images and satellite imagery, and extracting as much information as we could from our most knowledgeable contacts. Eventually we settled on the Kangertittivatsiaq region and became further convinced of the area when Hans reported that he had recently returned from hunting narwhal there and had seen jagged spires and towering walls erupting from an unnamed cirque.
Kangertittivatsiaq, 120km north-east of Tasiilaq, is an open fjord region peppered with peaks and glaciers that tumble into the frigid Arctic waters. It is best known for the imposing Ingolfsfjeld (2232m) in the South Steenstups area. Ingolfsfjeld has seen a number of attempts, but only a handful of successful ones including the jagged 50-pitch east ridge completed in a 75-hour push by a Yugoslavian team in 1971 and a 2000m route on the south face by a British team in 1975. Our particular cirque would be on a promontory south of Ingolfsfjeld and overlooking the vast expanse of the Danish Straits to the east. The main fjord of Kangertittivatsiaq to the north served as a passageway for the countless icebergs and debris issuing from the nearby Glacier de France.