Field Journal

In Conversation with Greg Long
Written by Abbie Merritt

‘I look back at my surfing career and some amazing moments – contest victories, world titles, which are among my greatest, most memorable surfing accomplishments. But when I’m honest, the most rewarding moments have always been when I’ve been part of something bigger. It’s about the integrity with which you’re living your life, and your ability to observe and appreciate deeply all that we have the opportunity to experience. It’s the friendships that we cultivate, the connections, our natural world – that’s where the beauty of life really exists.’

Greg Long is a surfer from San Clemente, Southern California, who has dedicated most of his life to riding big waves. He has won many titles, including multiple XXL Global Big Wave Awards (including Biggest Wave, Ride of the Year, and Performer of the Year), as well as Big Wave World Championship titles in 2012 and 2015.

A little over 10 years ago, Greg’s focus and energy shifted from chasing big waves towards environmental and ocean conservation. Although this change in mindset grew from years of travel and seeing the world from the ocean, a significantly close call in 2012 caused Greg to reflect on his achievements.

Greg Long shared his journey with Sidetracked – how he has evolved through athleticism to activism, and the line that draws these professions together.

For the last couple of decades, Greg has been carving out a space for big-wave surfing and winning competition after competition. His father was a lifeguard on San Clemente beach for 38 years, so the family’s upbringing was intrinsically linked to being by the sea. Fondly, Greg recalls sitting on the beach as a kid in awe of his dad, proudly wanting to grow up to be like him. ‘He introduced me and my siblings to the ocean. Swimming, diving, body surfing, and then ultimately surfing – which is, in my opinion, the pinnacle of those.’ He was around seven when he first fell in love with surfing.

His once small but ever-growing seaside town is one of the most consistent locations for quality surf – summer and winter. With the rarity of year-round waves, there was always an abundance of professional surfers, brands, and magazines around. ‘Having that dream of one day becoming a professional surfer wasn’t some far-fetched reality; you could see people who were doing it and making a living.’

Greg won one of the most prestigious amateur competitions and was earmarked for surf stardom at the age of 18, although he didn’t feel that his surfing level was very high. ‘I won that competition as it was at my home break. I really understood its nuances and could tactically outperform people.’

Nevertheless, it gave him a shoe in with the big companies and offered him the opportunity to negotiate a professional contract with the local surf brands. The catch, however, was that he didn’t want to follow the traditional path of the competitive surfer. He had already fallen in love with big-wave surfing – and, at that time, this was a real niche. So he persuaded a brand that it was worth backing him as somebody who focused on surf and adventure travel: ‘They bought into me being a marketable asset.’

From that point on, Greg travelled the world challenging himself against bigger waves and more complex rides. Until his early thirties, he dedicated every ounce of energy to larger waves – but with a sincere respect for the sea, grateful for his father’s thoughtful introduction.

Why such big waves?

‘It can distil down to simplicity. The bigger, more dangerous, or challenging the wave is, the greater the physical and mental challenge it is to actually ride. And I found a sense of accomplishment at the other end that far surpassed anything in the small-wave, performance side of surfing. I feel like I did it – I satiated my ego the ways that I needed to.’

The wave that shook his world and changed his direction in life was called the Cortez Bank. He had always felt a strong sense of comfort and understanding in the water, even when he went under, but this fall was different. ‘The Cortez Bank is an underwater sea mount 100 miles out in the middle of the ocean, unquestionably the most extreme far-fetched surf break in the world. In a lot of ways, it’s considered our Everest of big waves. You’re dealing with one of the most extreme forces of nature, and with waves of that magnitude, that much power, you’re at the mercy of the ocean when you fall.

‘It was the perfect storm of unfortunate events for me. I was held underwater for three consecutive waves until I blacked out from lack of oxygen and elevated levels of CO2 in my bloodstream. I relied 100 per cent on my safety team to save me. Had it not been for them, I would’ve drowned that day. In my mind, I had always said that if that’s the way I go, I would be OK with it. But when I was gifted the opportunity to come back and honestly reflect, I realised that no, that’s not the way I want to do it.’

At the time, the realm of paddle surfing was evolving quickly. Greg and a small circle of other athletes were pushing their sport further than ever before. ‘Sadly, a handful of close friends drowned within a very short period of time – they passed away while we were doing this.’ With his father’s foundations of safety in the water, and years of training, Greg recognised that the number of accidents was both avoidable and unacceptable. He and a few other surfers got together to create a safety programme oriented towards their community, with the intention of educating people on how to look out for one another. With Brian Keaulana, a legendary lifeguard from Hawaii who is widely respected as the godfather of ocean safety, they designed a curriculum for everyone who loves and occupies the sea. Following the footsteps of his mother, also a teacher, Greg now leads these classes, sharing his passion and experiences with aspiring students who want the tools to save others amongst the waves.

‘I have been on both sides of the coin. I’ve been there with people I care so dearly about who’ve tragically passed away, and also been able to save the lives of people I care about. I’ve felt the polar contrast of emotions that goes with that.’

Greg now balances teaching workshops with conservation projects, ensuring that his time is spent fulfilling his beliefs. As an ambassador for Parley for the Oceans, Greg recently collaborated with Talisker to unveil the story behind the Glacial Edge 45-year-old whisky release. His journey to the Pemberton Icefield was captured in the short film The Stories the Ice Holds, documenting the research undertaken during the expedition and the changing ice conditions.

Although the accident was the apex that turned his life around, Greg’s devotion to communicating stories from around the globe has never faltered. His platform, once built to share stories of adventure in beautiful places, now shares the voices of communities affected by climate change and highlights legislation that needs support. ‘We are going to change now, or it’s going to be too late. That change starts with every single individual.’

Greg also continues to surf big waves, but nowadays prioritises enjoyment over accomplishment. His connection to the sea, instilled in him from a young age, continues to grow – but he now admires the sport’s continued evolution from afar.

Written by Abbie Merritt // <a href="https://www.instagram.com/abbie_merritt_" rel="noopener" target="_blank"@abbie_merritt_
With Greg Long // @gerglong
Photography: Al Mackinnon // Frank Quiarte // Todd Glaser // Scotica Film // Talisker
Produced in association with Talisker // @talisker