Dancing on the Edge

Kitesurfing in Iceland

Words & Photography: Vincent Schaap

The air is alive, crackling with tension. Winds from the ice whip across the icy water, past the rocks where I stand. I pull my jacket closer around me but the chill finds its way in anyway, creeping through every layer.

We’ve been chasing this moment for days, rolling the dice on conditions impossible to predict. The lack of sleep is taking its toll, but something deeper – something raw and restless – drives me forward.


We came here on a whim, chasing a vision. A strike mission, as we called it. No guarantees, just a faint promise of something extraordinary. I’d watched the forecast with deliberation bordering on obsession – tracing wind patterns, scanning satellite maps – trying to align our movements with the shifting moods of this place. The uncertainty gnawed at me. Will we find what we’re looking for? Or have we gambled everything on a false promise? A maddening game of chance. Until now.

The river stretches out before me, steel-grey meltwater cutting through black volcanic sand. The wind is brutal, strong enough to make me stagger when a gust hits at the wrong angle. My hands, stiff from the cold, clench into fists at my sides. The freezing air stings my face, and I know the water is much worse. I shiver at the thought of being out there.

But Camille is on the water, a lone figure battling the elements. His kite yanks at him like a living thing, unpredictable and relentless. I watch from a distance, every muscle tense. This isn’t just another session. It’s an experiment. An attempt at something that perhaps shouldn’t even be done: kitesurfing in this elemental place, in conditions this turbulent. The wind is too unpredictable, the river too cold. The risks are real. And yet, here we are.

This trip has already tested us in ways I never expected. We spent days chasing the wind, driving from one spot to another, hoping for the right conditions. Each place looked promising on the maps, on the forecasts, but in reality was always different. One spot had winds too light; another had gusts too violent to be safe. The tide was wrong, the angles weren’t working, the elements conspired against us. Frustration built with every failed attempt. We had come all this way, poured everything into this trip, and yet Iceland wasn’t giving anything back. Would we leave without ever finding what we came for?

The wind is still howling, the river still churning, and Camille is still out there, dancing on the edge of disaster.

Now, finally, the moment we have been chasing is here. Part of me wonders if we’re pushing too hard, if we should have played it safe. But another part of me, the part that got me to Iceland in the first place, knows that this is exactly what we came for. Not for the easy rides or the guaranteed sessions. But for the uncertainty. For the question: can this even be done? The thought had burrowed deep, keeping me awake at night, filling my mind with visions of wind and water and the raw, unforgiving power of Iceland’s wilderness. And now, standing here, the answer is unfolding before me in real time.

The river is wide, stretching nearly a quarter of a mile to the opposite bank. I can barely hear anything over the wind, but I don’t need to. The tension is visible in every movement. I know what it takes to fight conditions like this, to hold steady when everything is trying to rip you off course.

Then, suddenly, a violent gust hits, and Camille’s kite loops wildly. He’s pulled off balance, his board skimming sideways across the water. I take a step forward, as if I could do something, but I’m frozen. My mind races with worst-case scenarios: the kite falling into the water, the current taking him, the icy water swallowing him whole.

But somehow, he regains control. The kite stabilises, and he’s moving again, carving upstream against the current. Relief floods me, but it’s short lived. The wind is still howling, the river still churning, and Camille is still out there, dancing on the edge of disaster.

He’s a speck in the distance now, battling the gusts, at their mercy but moving with precision. The kite tugs violently, and I can tell he’s struggling. I want to do something, to intervene, but there’s nothing I can do from here. This is his fight. I can only watch.

Finally, the end of the session is nearing. We start running, my boots sinking into the wet ground as we move as fast as we can along the river’s edge. My heart is hammering. The cold is forgotten, replaced by something sharper – an urgency, an instinct.

When we reach Camille, he’s standing on the far shore, breathless, his hands shaking. I can see the exhaustion in his face. He looks at me, half laughing, half in disbelief. ‘Could barely hang on,’ he says. ‘Felt like it was gonna take me with it.’

I nod, but I don’t say anything. What is there to say? We both know how close that was.

The reality of what we just did settles in as we make our way back. The cold, the wind, the sheer unpredictability of it all – it should have been too much. Maybe it was. But there’s something about standing on the edge of what’s possible, about pushing just far enough to see what’s on the other side. It’s what brought us here. It’s what will bring us back again.

As I look out over the river one last time, I feel it. That pull. The unshakable curiosity that got us here in the first place. The desire to know: what’s out there? What’s possible? And how far can we go before we find the answer? Tomorrow, we’ll do it all over again


First published in Sidetracked Volume 34
Words and photography by Vincent Schaap // @vincentschaap

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