Field Journal

A guide to Holiday region Gstaad and Adelboden–Lenk–Kandersteg
Written by Jenny Tough // Photography by John Summerton // Film by Summit Fever Media
Produced in partnership with Switzerland Tourism

Autumn settles gently across Bernese Oberland. Forests appear lit up in reds and golds beneath snow-capped peaks, the air feels fresh and the trails are quiet. It’s a moment between seasons – a time when the mountains feel open, peaceful, and alive with colour.

This is a landscape designed for movement and an appreciation of nature. From via ferratas and trail running to lakeside paddles and slow evenings over fondue, autumn offers space to explore the extremes, the food, the history and the tranquility offered within these regions.

ADELBODEN–LENK–KANDERSTEG

Spanning a series of connected valleys, the Adelboden-Lenk-Kandersteg region is defined by variety. Waterfalls, forests, high passes, and open plateaus shape the terrain, while villages retain a strong sense of alpine identity. It’s a place to move through – where each valley reveals a slightly different character.

HIGHLIGHTS

Trail Running – Sunnbüel & Gasterntal
The climb to Sunnbüel via the Fortuna trail winds steadily through forest before opening onto expansive alpine terrain. In autumn, cooler temperatures and dry conditions make it ideal for long efforts, with a rewarding mix of sustained climbing and flowing trail above the treeline.

Paragliding – Allmenalp
Launching from Allmenalp, paragliding offers a calm, expansive perspective on the landscape. A short gondola ride leads to take-off, where wide alpine views unfold. Once airborne, the experience becomes quiet and immersive – a slow descent through open space, far removed from the effort of the trails below.

Blausee Nature Park
At the heart of Blausee Nature Park lies a small, intensely blue lake surrounded by forest. Wooden paths circle the water, encouraging slow exploration. In autumn, the colours deepen and the atmosphere becomes almost surreal – a place to pause, reflect, and absorb the quieter side of the region.

WHERE TO STAY

Seiler’s Vintage Hotel, Kandersteg
A characterful alpine hotel that embraces its heritage without feeling dated. Comfortable rooms and a relaxed atmosphere make it a practical base for exploring the surrounding valleys. Its central location allows easy access to both higher alpine terrain and gentler valley routes.

Hotel Ermitage, Kandersteg
A traditional Swiss chalet hotel sitting slightly outside the village centre, the Ermitage offers a quieter, more unhurried base. A sauna, and an outdoor hot tub with mountain views give it a strong sense of retreat, while the restaurant is known for its Swiss classics. This is a good option for those wanting comfort and calm whilst having good access to the surrounding landscape.

WHERE TO EAT

Restaurant Blausee
Set within the nature park, this restaurant focuses on fresh, local ingredients and a simple, seasonal approach. The trout, sourced directly from the lake, is a highlight. Dining here feels connected to the landscape – refined enough to feel special, but grounded in place.

Mountain Restaurants & Hütten
Scattered across the region, traditional mountain huts and restaurants serve hearty alpine dishes in relaxed settings. Often reached on foot or by cable car, they form natural stopping points along the trails. Expect simple food, strong coffee, and views that encourage you to stay a little longer.

WHERE TO EXPLORE

Kandersteg & Surrounding Valleys
Kandersteg acts as a gateway to a diverse network of trails, linking valley routes with higher alpine terrain. In autumn, the combination of colour, light, and space makes exploration especially rewarding. Whether heading into Gasterntal or climbing higher, each route offers a distinct experience.

Holiday region Gstaad

Tucked into the Saanenland valley, Holiday region Gstaad blends alpine tradition with quiet sophistication. Known for its chalet-lined streets and understated luxury, it still feels deeply connected to the surrounding landscape. Step beyond the villages and you’re quickly into open terrain – ridgelines, forests, and lakes that glow in autumn light, with trails leading in every direction.

HIGHLIGHTS

Cheese Grotto & Alpine Dining
Hidden beneath the mountains above Gstaad, the Gstaad Cheese Grotto is a sensory introduction to Swiss food culture. Thousands of wheels age slowly underground, developing flavour over time. Above, fondue is shared outdoors at heavy wooden tables – simple, social, and deeply rooted in alpine tradition.

Hornfluh Sunrise Hike
An early start to Hornfluh rewards with one of the region’s most memorable viewpoints. A fairly short climb leads to wide alpine panoramas, where the first light stretches slowly across the peaks and valleys. In autumn, the quieter trails and cooler air make the experience feel calm, reflective, and well worth the effort.

Via Ferrata – Indiana Jones Trail
The Hornfluh Via Ferrata Indiana Jones blends ladders, cables, scrambles, and playful features into a fast-moving alpine route. It’s accessible without being tame, offering just enough exposure to feel adventurous. This is a great introduction to via ferrata, offering the chance to test your nerves and develop your skills.

Arnensee Lake Paddle
Set high above the valley, Arnensee offers a slower rhythm. Canoeing across the lake, surrounded by autumn forests and rising peaks, this paddle is less about distance and more about immersion. Fire pits around the lake provide a natural pause point – a place to cook, rest, and take in the landscape.

WHERE TO STAY

The PostHotel Gstaad
Set in the heart of the village, PostHotel Gstaad offers a more traditional alpine stay, combining historic character with modern comfort. Rooms are warm and understated, with a focus on natural materials and calm spaces. Its central location makes it easy to step straight out onto nearby trails, while the slower pace inside encourages rest and recovery after long days in the mountains.

HUUS Gstaad
A more relaxed and contemporary option, HUUS leans into a Scandinavian-inspired aesthetic with warm woods, open spaces, and a social atmosphere. It’s particularly well suited to active travellers, with easy access to trails and a strong focus on comfort after a day outside.

WHERE TO EAT

For a satisfying and traditional start to the day, Bergrestaurant Hornfluh is known for its excellent farmer’s breakfast. This is a memorable and hearty meal, best enjoyed after the Hornfluh Sunrise Hike, providing energy and a taste of local alpine fare in a setting with wide-ranging views. They also serve excellent coffee!

Picnic Fire Pits & Alpine Trails
Across the Gstaad region, many trails are dotted with well-equipped picnic spots known locally as Grillstellen – complete with fire pits, grills, and neatly stacked wood stores ready to use. It’s a simple but deeply rooted tradition: light a fire, cook sausages over open flames, and settle in with bread and mustard. Less a stop, more a ritual woven into the landscape.

WHERE TO EXPLORE

Saanenland Trails & Lakes
The network of trails around Holiday region Gstaad connects forests, ridgelines, and lakes into a varied and accessible landscape. In autumn, the colours and quieter conditions make exploration especially rewarding. Whether on foot or bike, routes can be adapted to suit pace and ambition, always with strong visual rewards.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Autumn in the Bernese Oberland is about balance – between movement and stillness, colour and snow, energy and calm. It’s a season that rewards time spent in an incredible landscape, where each day feels full without needing to rush.