Field Journal

Destination Guide: Valais
Written by Harriet Folkes // Photography by Rachel Keenan
Produced in partnership with Switzerland Tourism

Situated in the heart of the Swiss Alps, the Valais is the promised land for outdoor adventure. With 45 mountains above 4,000m, mineral-rich thermal baths, and the mighty Great Aletsch Glacier (a vast ribbon of ice that stretches over 20km), it’s easy to see why.

The region has more than 8,000km of marked hiking trails, and 2,000km of biking trails, as well as a wide variety of climbing routes – everything from adventure trails and via ferrata with a steel cable suspension bridge to fixed-rope routes up sheer rock faces. For more experienced climbers, traditional alpinism offers an even more adventurous way to experience the highest peaks. Looking for something less extreme? In the region’s Alpine towns you will find traditional wooden chalets, cobblestone streets, and centuries-old bakeries selling rye bread, sweet home-made pastries, and local delicacies. Valais also basks in 300 days of sunshine a year.

Planning a trip to the Valais? Here are some of the best things to do, as well as places to eat and stay in the region. For more information, visit www.valais.ch.

Leukerbad

Leukerbad is an attractive Alpine village with some of the largest thermal spas in Europe. No fewer than 65 thermal springs feed mineral-rich waters into the mountain spas every day – making them a perfect way to unwind after a day of hiking, biking, or climbing in the mountains and forests. The village has maintained its historic identity with traditional wooden chalets, cobblestone streets, artisan shops, and cafés satisfying an authentic taste of Swiss mountain life.
Details: www.leukerbad.ch

Things to do in the region

Gemmi cable car
The Gemmi Pass sits 2,270m above sea level and 859m above Leukerbad. It’s the perfect place to enjoy a hike or simply take in sweeping views of the Valais region’s highest peaks: Monte Rosa, Matterhorn, Weisshorn, Bishorn, and Dent Blanche. From the Gemmi Pass, enjoy a gentle two-hour hike around the lake Daubensee before indulging in regional cuisine at the spectacular Gemmi Panorama Restaurant, a culinary oasis perched on the edge of a cliff above the Gemmi Pass. The ‘Gemmimax’ hot coffee with regional schnapps topped with whipped cream is not to be missed.
Details: leukerbad.ch/en/gemmi#timetable-contact

Leukerbad Therme
What better way to spend an afternoon than relaxing in a thermal spa surrounded by mountains? Leukerbad Therme is the largest in Europe, with 10 pools fed by mineral-rich natural spring water and temperatures varying from 28°C to 43°C. The pools feature whirlpools, massage jets, sports pools, and a sauna with a range of spa treatments. It’s family friendly too, with a 100m-long waterslide to keep kids entertained. Children up to the age of eight are admitted free of charge.
Details: leukerbad.ch/en/therme

Where to eat and drink

Hotel Restaurant Waldhaus

Restaurant Waldhaus is one of the best restaurants in Leukerbad – family owned and brimming with Swiss charm, famous for its culinary excellence. Offering a modern twist on Valaisian classics with an extensive regional wine selection, it has become a firm favourite for locals and tourists alike. Find it tucked away on a quiet street just 150m from the Torrent cable car and the Walliser Alpentherme & SPA with stunning mountain views.
Details: hotel-waldhaus.ch/en/

Where to stay

The Hotel Quellenhof
The Hotel Quellenhof is centrally located on the quiet promenade a short walk from the Alpentherme thermal baths. With bright and airy lodge and Alpine rooms, it’s an ideal refuge after a day in the mountains. Unwind with an Aperol spritz or savour the fine Grappa di Amarone from the oak barrel. Enjoy the distinctive Valaisian gastronomy. Half-board guests can enjoy a four-course meal of regional cuisine – including the house speciality, the bison fillet.
Details: quellenhof-leukerbad.ch

Saas-Fee/Saastal

Saas-Fee/Saastal is a unique haven for Alpine enthusiasts. Renowned for climbing, biking, and hiking, the village of Saas-Fee rests on a high plateau at 1,800m, and the whole valley is surrounded by 18 peaks over 4,000m. This classic ski resort features well-preserved Swiss wood architecture and basks in over 300 days of sunshine per year. The village centre of Saas-Fee is car-free. During summer and autumn, the SaastalCard provides free cable cars and public transport from your first overnight stay.
Details: www.saas-fee.ch/en

Things to do in the region

Climb Jegihorn from Kreuzboden
Consisting of steel cables, ladders, and a spectacular suspension bridge, with breathtaking views of Switzerland’s highest mountains, it is easy to see why the Jegihorn is known as the panoramic via ferrata. Recommended in safe weather, the seven-to-eight-hour tour is accessible by cable car from Saas-Grund to Kreuzboden. Follow the via ferrata to Jegihorn’s summit, which is adorned with a large wooden cross. At 3,206 m, it’s the highest via ferrata in the Western Alps – certainly one of the most beautiful – and graded between KS3 and KS5 in difficulty, depending on route variation. The descent via Weissmieshütte includes 400 steps and five ladders. The mountain railway offers a convenient return to Saas-Grund.
Details: www.saas-fee.ch/en/summer-activity#ipd=23425731

Gorge Alpine (Alpine Canyon)
A natural spectacle between rock, water, wind, and air. The varied gorge via ferrata leads from Saas-Fee to Saas-Grund. For centuries, people could only look in awe at the depths of the Gorge Alpine. Today, active explorers can cross the gorge dry-footed on steel ropes, iron pins, Nepalese ladders, and swaying suspension bridges. The price includes a mountain guide and technical equipment. No previous experience is required.
Details: www.saas-fee.ch/en/summer-activities/gorge-alpine-alpine-canyon

Where to eat and drink

Situated at the foot of Lagginhorn, the Weissmieshütte is a favoured starting point for various rock and ice tours – as well as being family friendly and easily reachable in summer and autumn. Start your day with a hearty breakfast of home-made bread, muesli, and cheese or refuel after your climb or descent with regional specialities, Alpine treats, hot soup, or home-made cakes. Weissmieshütte is accessible from Saas-Grund via gondola to Kreuzboden or Hohsaas mountain station.
Details: weissmieshuette.ch/en

Where to stay

Hotel Allalin
Combining traditional wood furnishing and contemporary Swiss design, the Allalin is a beautiful family-owned four-star hotel with spectacular views of the Mischabel massif. It’s conveniently located not far from the centre of Saas-Fee, with easy access to the new Hannig cable car and several walking trails nearby. After a day of adventure, guests can unwind with a drink in the bar, lounge, or garden. Half-board guests can enjoy a five-course meal by candlelight surrounded by 350-year-old larch wood beams, and the kitchen serves a mix of traditional Swiss and international cuisine. The hotel has a sauna and relaxation area, too.
Details: allalin.ch

Aletsch Arena and the town of Fiesch

The Valais village of Fiesch is the ideal starting point for tours into the area around the mighty Aletsch Glacier, the Goms Valley, over Alpine passes, and into the little town of Brig. Situated on a low hill on the sunny side of the valley of the upper Rhône, Fiesch is a perfect location for mountaineers, hikers, and bikers, with over 300km of hiking paths – and another 100km of mountain-bike trails – to explore.
Details: www.aletscharena.ch/en

Things to do in the region

Great Aletsch Glacier
The Great Aletsch Glacier is the largest in the Alps, known for its otherworldly ice formations, deep crevasses, and surrounding mountains soaring high into the sky. This river of ice – a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2001 – stretches over 20km from its formation in the Jungfrau region at over 4,000m, down to the Massa Gorge 2,500m below. It currently weighs 10 billion tonnes, measures 800m thick, and covers a staggering 79km2. However, the glacier (like all Swiss glaciers) is shrinking. Head to Moosfluh, Hohfluh, Bettmerhorn, and Eggishorn for the best views of this natural wonder.
Details: www.aletscharena.ch/en/world-natural-heritage-site/great-aletsch-glacier

MTB
Over 100km of bike routes are waiting to be explored in the Aletsch Arena, where the Aletsch Glacier meanders through an imposing mountain landscape. MTB tours pass through the villages of Bettmeralp, Riederalp, and Fiescheralp along varied terrain – from paved and narrow streets to uneven forest sections and Alpine paths. MTB routes are suitable for families and beginners as well as advanced bikers. In summer 2024, the UCI Mountain Bike World Series will take place, and in 2025 there are the Enduro World Championships to look forward to.
Details: www.aletscharena.ch/en/activities/mountainbike

Where to eat and drink

Restaurant STRAUSS
Experience an unforgettable culinary journey at Restaurant STRAUSS, where excellent food meets a warm, cosy atmosphere, and all dishes are made from fresh, high-quality, and regional ingredients.
Details: www.restaurant-strauss.ch/restaurant

Where to stay

The Hotel des Alpes
The Hotel des Alpes is a comfortable boutique hotel in the heart of Fiesch. Owned by the local Albrecht family, the hotel offers double attic and newly renovated single rooms. Enjoy a complimentary bottle of Aletsch craft beer from Switzerland’s vice beer sommelier champion, and receive free access to various facilities at Sport Resort Fiesch with the hotel’s sport pass. The hotel’s Restaurant des Alpes serves Valais delicacies, pizzas, and vegetarian dishes. Book for five nights or more, and choose half board with a three-course menu. Indulge in outstanding beer specialities brewed on-site and relish in the central location for various outdoor activities.
Details: des-alpes.ch

Nendaz & Veysonnaz

Nendaz & Veysonnaz are two charming mountain resorts located in the heart of the Valais and right in the middle of the 4 Vallées, Switzerland’s largest ski area. In the winter, these resorts offer unparalleled skiing and snowboarding. But in the warmer months, Nendaz & Veysonnaz transform into idyllic summer destinations, renowned for scenic walks along historic irrigation channels (bisses). The frequently settled weather of autumn makes this a great place to visit later in the season, too. The region has endless Alpine scenery to explore, with over 250km of hiking trails, 200km of mountain bike and e-bike routes, and 14 trail-running paths. Thrill-seekers can also experience the world’s highest zip line!
Details: www.nendaz.ch/en // www.veysonnaz.ch/en

Things to do in the region

E-bike
Embark on an e-bike adventure with 12 diverse routes covering 200km, including three family-friendly paths. Explore the region at your pace, pedalling along mountain trails or serene forest cycleways. Whether you seek a relaxing ride or an adrenaline-pumping challenge, e-bikes offer an accessible and enjoyable way for everyone to experience the natural beauty of Nendaz & Veysonnaz.
Details: www.nendaz.ch/en/Z13437/mtb-e-bike and www.veysonnaz.ch/en/Z13623/mountain-bike-and-e-bike

Cleuson dam hike
Lake Cleuson is located in the heights of Siviez at the rear of the Nendaz Valley. The Cleuson Dam, constructed between 1946 and 1950, holds 20 million m3 of Printse River water, producing an average of 70 million kW/h per year. Take a scenic 7.8km hike from Siviez, passing through the Tortin mountain pasture. This gentle route takes around two hours and 30 minutes with a 498m altitude gain.
Details: www.nendaz.ch/en/V2586/hike-cleuson-dam

Where to eat and drink

Buvette la Cab’Anne Café
Take a break at Buvette la Cab’Anne Café, tucked away in the idyllic hamlet of Verrey, surrounded by centuries-old wooden buildings and panoramic views. Enjoy a mouth-watering summer menu of crêpes, steak tartare, cheese fondue, craft beers, and local wines. Book an evening for a raclette experience with an unforgettable sunset view. The café also offers products from Vernettaz farm, including cheese, serac, and sausages.
Details: www.veysonnaz.ch/en/P76639/la-cab-anne-cafe

Where to stay

The Chalet Royal
Discover Chalet Royal, a central haven with 56 rooms boasting all-round views of the Rhône Valley and Valais vineyards. Just two minutes from ski lifts, this Alpine retreat combines Swiss chalet charm with modern comfort. Indulge in a seasonal menu at the Restaurant le Convivial, and relax in the jacuzzi, sauna, or relaxation area. An ideal base for mountain adventures.
Details: www.chaletroyal.ch/fr

Brig Simplon

The Brig Simplon region stretches from the historic town of Brig, up to the barren high mountain landscape on the Simplonpass, and on to Gondo on the Italian border. The area is worth visiting at any time of year – in summer and autumn for hiking, and in winter for skiing. The Stockalper Trail, linking Brig over the Simplon Pass to Gondo and Domodossola in Italy, is considered the connecting element between town, countryside, and mountain.
Details: brig-simplon.ch/en

Things to do in the region

Simplon Pass Route
Starting from Brig, head towards the Simplon Pass and take in the panoramic views of Belalp, Riederalp, Rosswald, and Bettmeralp terraces. Keep an eye out for the iconic stone eagle on the Simplon Pass, a symbol of vigilance! Finish your journey in the Italian town of Domodossola (remember your ID or passport for the border crossing). Wander around storybook street corners and attractions like the Chavez Museum, Sacro Monte Calvario, and the Pilgrims’ Path.
Details:myswitzerland.com/en-gb/experiences/simplon-pass-route

Paragliding
Experience the ultimate freedom: soaring like an eagle over the Valais mountains. A professional tandem pilot expertly uses thermals, allowing you to admire the bird’s eye view of the landscape and mountain scenery. The take-off site on the sunny ridge of Rosswald is accessible year-round and easily reached on foot after taking the cable car up.
Details: https://www.brig-simplon.ch/en/summer/paragliding

Where to eat and drink

Bäckerei Arnold
A family business for 135 years, Bäckerei Arnold is a beloved bakery best known for its rye bread, sweet home-made pastries, and local delicacies. It is much appreciated as a stopover for those travelling to or from Italy, offering a snug retreat after a hike or ski tour on the Simplon pass.
Details: baeckerei-arnold.ch/en

Where to stay

Hotel Garni Simplon
Hotel Garni Simplon offers cosy rooms with mountain views, and a rich breakfast featuring local products and fresh bakery bread. Relax with refreshing drinks on the garden terrace or take a three-minute walk to the Brigerbad thermal baths, where guests receive a 20 per cent discount on the entry price.
Details: garni-simplon.ch