Field Journal

Stories Behind the Gear: Berghaus Extrem
Written by Davy Wright // Photography Courtesy of Berghaus

I shake my arms to force fresh blood into my extremities. Holding onto the rope and belay device for over an hour has left my digits in a curled position. I’ve managed to free the rope from the belay plate after opening the carabiner with some difficulty – ‘Off belay!’ – and the remainder of the rope starts to snake up the route I’ll be following.

As I strip the anchor points and replace the gear on the loops of my harness, I feel my fingers beginning to revive. The last thing to sort out is the carefully curated contents of my pack. I lift the insulated jacket from the top and reprove myself for not putting it on before the leader set off – won’t be long till you’re on, I think. Never mind, the climb will warm me up.

The way in which groups, pairs, or individuals approach a mountain can be deeply personal. Mountaineering style has evolved. The founders of modern alpinism shifted from the guerrilla tactics used to scale Himalayan behemoths to tight-knit missions of two or three with minimal kit – faster, lighter, and in a more elegant style. Berghaus ambassador Sir Chris Bonington evolved his own climbing style in this period, from his big siege-style expeditions of the 1970s to leaner, lighter missions of the late 1980s. This is when he first wore the iconic Extrem logo, too – the range was launched in 1986. This style may be more elegant, but it also comes with greater potential for suffering.

And I am suffering, barely able to feel my ice axes through my gloves (which I wish were thicker). I can, however, feel the vibration up my arm as the axe makes a satisfying thunk into solid ice. I am thankful for the waterproof jacket and trousers that shelter me from the ice and spindrift pouring from the route above. I am dry: a satisfying thought. If I didn’t feel dry then another layer of suffering would be added to the experience. I am thankful for the kit I have as I reach higher with my axes and bring the jagged crampons fixed to my insulated boots up – kick, kick, thunk, thunk – following the bright yellow leash secured to my waist.

Alpinism has developed over recent decades, and has been described by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. A style of climbing so ingrained into its participant’s psyche that it’s about far more than the amount of gear being carried. It is about how the routes are approached and the style they are carried out in.

We approached this mountain thoughtfully, carefully considering all the gear we would need for the ascent. It had all been laid out on my living room floor. Discarding the kit that we might need or would be nice to have. Essentials only on this trip. Our packs bulge, but we have benefited from the small load when moving quickly, both on the walk in and on the climb. And small loads ensure that we aren’t too top heavy when climbing. This is a day raid, but a long one, and daylight is scarce in winter.

Berghaus have been making mountain-specific kit since their inception. Their Extrem range, originally launched in 1986, is for big missions in the harshest environments. Berghaus have always been part of mountain culture – they have a style which can be recognised from across the slope, ridge, or buttress. With the relaunch of Extrem, they set out three ranges of kit tailored for the right level of performance for any adventure. The full offering ensures both female and male gear has the same technical features available.

Now the blood is pumping to the extremities, moving fast with the confidence of the rope above. A swing lead at the belay, gear swapped over, adjustments made to the rope, and off into the unknown. Well, unknown to me. More care is taken, axe points hooked, weighted. One boot raised at a time, and a thrust up, next axe positioned: a flow. A style every mountaineer aspires to. Protection, in the form of ice screws twisted into the ice and nuts slipped into breaks in the exposed rock, gives confidence in the climb to the summit.

Extrem is made up of MTN Seeker, MTN Guide, and MTN Arete. The Seeker is for the aspiring mountaineer whose sights have shifted focus to bigger objectives. This range still has lots of features but on a smaller budget to the rest of the range. The Guide provides high-performing kit for the proficient mountaineer – full featured, robust, and durable, allowing long-term performance and protection in the severest conditions. The Arete is built to serve the skilled ski mountaineer or tourer and the range excels in performance, functionality, comfort, and style. Styles from each collection can be seamlessly intermixed to create a layering system that’s perfectly tailored for your next adventure.

The route goes – a term climbers use to describe successfully completing the objective. Standing on the summit, wind howling, sun winking through the cloud as the breaks rush by, in a delirious embrace with the climber who has been on the other end of my lifeline for this endeavour. Today the mountain relented and allowed our success. It is never guaranteed. We can make plans and train our bodies but sometimes it just doesn’t go.

What can be guaranteed is that the new Berghaus Extrem range will perform when you need it. It has been designed with experience, using the best materials on the market and the passion of mountain lovers. Most importantly, the collection has style.