Field Journal

Austria Uncovered: Innsbruck
Written by Daniel Neilson with Kirra Balmanno
Produced in Partnership with Visit Austria

Innsbruck is known as the Heart of the Alps: a vibrant, culturally rich city circled by mountains. We’d describe a summer holiday with Innsbruck as a base as ‘Alpine-urban’, a perfect blend of nature and culture, relaxation and challenge, city and countryside. Imagine long days out on the hills, followed by some of the best food in Austria. Welcome to Innsbruck.

Where the locals play: Kirra Balmanno, ultrarunner, adventurer, and veterinarian

‘I have lived in some pretty spectacular places on Earth, but my time in Innsbruck stands out as truly exceptional. The heart of the Alps, this candy-coloured city, with its sugar-coated mountains, captures a place in the mountain-lover’s heart that never fades.

‘What makes Innsbruck so special? Aside from the romantic pastel buildings reflected in the River Inn, the charming cobblestone streets of Old Town, and the captivating 360° mountain backdrop, it’s the energy here that pulls you in.

‘Mountains here are a way of life, connecting the people who are drawn to Innsbruck. Whether you’re into climbing, snowboarding, skiing, mountain biking, or trail running, there’s never a time of day (or night) when you can’t find someone who’s up for a mountain mission. The Innsbruck scene is one of friendly competition. “Average” here is exceptionally fit and, although the scene is competitive, it’s of the supportive kind – the sort that inspires and uplifts you to push a little beyond what you thought you were capable of.

‘For those who prefer to inhabit the vertical realm, Nordkette is where to head for fun. Out the door, select any trail going up to reach dizzying altitudes quickly with the steep gradients. And at a secret location on the Nordkette lies a tiny wooden bivouac that sleeps four – a sanctuary for weary adventurers. Run enough trails on this side of the valley, and you’ll eventually find it. And when you do, keep it a secret. The Patscherkofel side of the valley has more runnable rolling and forested terrain, perfect for some faster or easier runs.

‘Your Hausberge, or house-mountains – your local playgrounds – are the Patscherkofel and the Hafelekar. An induction into Innsbruck life is to begin at the iconic Goldenes Dachl in the city centre and run a skate ramp-route, bagging one peak before rolling back into the valley to head up the other side and summit the next. Once completed, I’d suggest beers and slacklining by the Inn, followed by replenishing carbohydrate stores with Kaiserschmarrn.

‘Innsbruck isn’t just a destination; it’s a lifestyle. It’s a place where the mountains are not just a backdrop but an integral part of daily life. For trail runners like myself, it’s a paradise waiting to be explored, one epic run at a time.’

Experience Lebensgefühl in Innsbruck

In Kirra’s words, ‘Innsbruck isn’t just a destination; it’s a lifestyle’. Lebensgefühl is an Austrian word that means ‘sense of life’ – that conscious feeling of participating in real life. We also asked the local tourist board about what a summer living in Innsbruck meant to them.

‘Everything is possible in and around Innsbruck in a completely natural way. It’s the perfect starting point to choose something new every day, in just one place, and to experience bespoke activities.’

Experiences at all altitudes
‘The region combines the very best of urban environments and Alpine adventures. On the city’s eponymous River Inn, you can enjoy a city rafting tour, passing the sights and enjoying the surrounding mountain panorama. But the impressive Nordkette mountain range can be reached after a short ride on the Nordkettenbahnen funicular and cable cars, directly from the shores of the Inn, and you find yourself in the midst of the Alpine landscape at an altitude of over 2,000m.’

Mindful time in nature
‘Forests, meadows, and mountain peaks can be easily reached directly from the city within a very short time, whether you’re looking for a leisurely walk across the Mieming Plateau, a chalet-to-chalet walk, or a panoramic summit tour in the Kalkkögel Mountains.

‘You’ll also find cycle paths, mountain-bike routes, and trails for hours of enjoyment. For something less action-packed, nature can be experienced with open-air yoga on the mountain, with singing birds as background music and fresh air as an energy booster.’

Join the in[n]siders
‘Small but impressive’ is the formula that captures Innsbruck’s essence. With a population of just over 130,000, Tirol’s capital is a manageable size. Hip eateries, independent shops, festivals, and a diverse population offers a cosmopolitan lifestyle. It also holds events with a global impact, including the Crankworx Festival and the IFSC Climbing World Cup.

Facts about the region

Hiking routes
Hiking routes around Innsbruck weave through five different mountain ranges, from relatively flat paths on the Mieming Plateau to high Alpine trails and rugged terrain in the Sellrain Valley.

Cycle routes
There are dozens of options for cyclists of all disciplines. Mountain bikers can take long trails around the mountains, through villages and into the forests, or enjoy an adrenaline fix at Bikepark Innsbruck. Roads of the Inn Valley are usually quiet but with some decent climbs.

Seven cable cars
Seven cable cars carry visitors high into the mountains above Innsbruck to a summit cross or a mountain hut. The Drei-Seen-Bahn Kühtai, for example, takes the visitor up to 2,420m to clear mountain lakes and high-altitude peaks, with options for via ferrata or a lake-to-lake walk.

82 huts
Yes, you read that right – there are 82 huts in the mountains surrounding Innsbruck, offering a wide variety of places to eat, drink, and stay.

684 hotels
There’s a hotel for everyone around Innsbruck, whether you’re looking for a stylish city pad or a traditional mountain hut.

Five bathing lakes
There are five beautiful swimming lakes around Innsbruck, several with activities for children. For some peace, head to Möserer Naturbadesee – a natural swimming lake above the village of Mösern, with the added bonus of being one of the warmest lakes in Tirol.

Did you know…
A free Welcome Card for visitors provides a wide range of possibilities for visitors staying two nights or more. All public transport – and selected cable cars and lifts – are free with the card, and you’ll find discounts and free offers on activities across the region.

Mountain Experiences

Nordkette Mountains
The Nordkette Mountains offer spectacular walking and rock climbing, and it is just a 20-minute cable car ride from the centre of Innsbruck. At the highest station, Hafelekar, you are at 2,269m above sea level, with views across the Austrian Alps. It’s a playground for climbers and mountain bikers.

Muttereralm Adventure Mountain
The Muttereralm Adventure Mountain offers numerous hiking options, including the 26km Innsbruck Almenweg trail. There are also plenty of places for refreshment, including the Mutterer Alm restaurant. Mountain bikers can take their bikes to Muttereralmbahn for trails back down the mountain. This is also where you can find Bikepark Innsbruck.

Axamer Lizum
This is one of the reasons people love Innsbruck. Only a 21-minute bus ride away are 62km of hiking trails from Axamer Lizum. A new gondola lift, the Hoadlbahn, whisks you to the panorama restaurant Hoadl-Haus at 2,340m in just a few minutes. From here, there are incredible views over the Kalkkögel. The Pleisen Panorama Trail is an easy three-peak hike from Hoadl to Axamer Kögele.

Kühtai
Take the cable car to Kühtai at 2,420m. Here, you’ll find the Kühtai Panorama via ferrata, leading to Pockkogel at 2,807m. It also marks the end (or beginning) of the Finstertal Route, a one-hour hiking route.

Hiking Routes

Zirbenweg trail
The Zirbenweg trail is one of the most beautiful short hikes anywhere in the Alps. This 7km trail, at 2,000m above sea level, threads through one of Europe’s largest stone pine forests.

Goetheweg Trail
The 10km Goetheweg trail is one of the most thrilling above Innsbruck. A head for heights is required for some narrow cliff-side paths high on the Karwendel Mountains. But it also takes in some of the gentle meadows and dwarf pine fields. The hike starts at the Hafelekar station, and largely follows the ridge to the Pfeishütte. Allow five hours.

Three Lakes Circuit Kühtai
The name gives it away, really, but this circular 9km hike starts at the tourist information centre in Kühtai and passes the the Hirschebensee lake, Mittlerer Plenderlessee lake, and the Unterer Plenderlessee lake – each beautiful spots high in the Alps.

Klammsteig gorge walk
This two-hour walk is perfect for families. It follows a path that runs through the Zimmerberg Gorge, following the stream for the most part, then zigzags (safely) up a cliff face before crossing a 30m steel cable suspension bridge over the Griesbach.

Karwendel Höhenweg
The Karwendel Höhenweg is a multi-day hut tour through the southern part of the Karwendel Mountains. It’s a 60km route with more than 7,000m of ascent, including across some challenging terrain, but you’ll find five lovely huts to relax in every evening.