The Timeless Alps: Winter

Back in the Alps again – and this time it’s winter, with all the wonder and promise that brings. In some ways it doesn’t feel long since our last visit. Then it was autumn, and our explorations on foot and by bicycle made me think about how this place constantly shifts and morphs all around us even as it remains the same. Now snow blankets the mountains. Seasons change. But the mountains, and the welcome, remain very much the same.

I love winter – always have. It’s been a crazy summer, with a full-on cycling season. I love cycling too, but after so much of the same thing I’m craving something different from my mountains. Snow brings simplicity and silence, beauty and new challenges. With the extra warm gear we need against the cold comes a bit more prep at the start of every day, a bit more faff – and the days are shorter too. So we must make the most of every precious moment.

I’m back in the Valais with my friends: Luke the filmmaker, Roman the photographer, John the producer. Hugs and high-fives when we meet betray the excitement at being back once again to see a different side to this region we’ve grown to love.

The anticipation we’re all feeling at heading back into the high peaks feels familiar, and yet every time I’m back here is different, just as the mountains are always different too – it’s never quite the same, because they evolve as we evolve. Deep, soft, fluffy snow blankets the ridges high above. It’s time to see what this new Valais adventure will bring.

Saas-Fee/Saastal

Gloriously crisp air greets us early in the morning in the car-free village of Saas-Fee – the kind that leaves you feeling wide awake and makes your breath hang in a frosted plume. It’s so special to be back here in the Saas Valley, a region surrounded by 18 4,000m peaks, which I know from previous visits are best admired from Hohsaas, in the midst of a ski area with great pistes and plenty of sunshine.

We all meet up at the Alpin Express gondola at the foot of the slopes. The Metro Alpin (the highest underground funicular railway in the world) then takes us up to the Mittelallalin, and beyond up to 3,600m with a T-bar lift. It’s one of the highest ski resorts in Europe. The first light of day paints the sky pink, colours spreading over the snow-covered peaks that surround us on all sides. And it’s silent – the silence you only really find up high on a mountain in winter, all sound cushioned by the blanket of snow covering everything. Then we step out onto the slopes, freshly groomed, pristine, untouched, and the crunch crunch crunch of our boots breaks the silence at last. It’s a sound that promises one thing: a day of pure exhilaration.

Back on skis! For most of us, it’s our first time this season, and we’re lucky to be here for amongst the first runs of the day. As we begin carving down the pistes, we quickly remember how to ski – it’s just like riding a bike – and soon we’re flying down with huge grins on our faces. The others look just as psyched as I feel. As we skid to a halt at the end of the first run, John calls, ‘This is what it’s all about!’

The pistes are fast and lively, and there’s an assortment of options for all skill levels from beginner to hardcore. The upper part of the ski area is located on the glacier, creating a special atmosphere high above the valley. I’d forgotten just how magical it is to be skiing here in the heart of Saas-Fee. Perhaps that’s partly down to the contrast of emotions and sensations: the adrenaline surge of each descent, matched by the serenity of quiet moments on the lift, suspended high above the snow-blanketed trees, when the world seems to pause. Silence and anticipation.

This early on a winter’s morning, the light takes on an ethereal quality, as if the wind that brushes over the slopes and picks up tendrils of spindrift is more glowing liquid than air. It’s bewitching.

But the wind soon picks up, so after a morning of exploring the region’s sunny pistes we descend to the foot of the slopes for an extremely tasty rösti lunch – then head through Saas-Fee village to give the winter ia ferrata ‘Gorge Alpine’ a try. It starts right at the edge of the village and descends 150m. Although we’ve done plenty of via ferrata routes in summer before, it’s an even more thrilling experience with snow on the rock, ice on the metalwork, and gloves on our hands! The descent through a river gorge is particularly spectacular as we clamber down rock faces bristling with icicles, close to the surging torrent and the bulbous formations of ice on its banks. Nothing but a steel cable and our resolve keep us anchored to the rock wall. A few abseils and ziplines pick up the pace. We’re enchanted by this unusual journey through a beautiful landscape – it’s exhilarating and deeply memorable.

As evening falls, we make our way to Leukerbad, where the Hotel Quellenhof welcomes us back with open arms – our third visit to this wonderful hotel. Dinner at the neighbouring Waldhaus restaurant is spectacular too. What a perfect end to a winter’s day spent outdoors.

Leukerbad

It’s always an early start in Valais, and this morning is no exception. But an early start is no hardship when the day ahead promises more adventure. We’re keen to continue exploring the region’s slopes and discover more of its secrets.

First light. Dolf, our guide for the day and an older gentleman with a strong, confident air, meets us at the Torrent Cable Car with a smile and a wave. Into the lift; back up into the mountains. The ride is a journey through layers of landscape, from the village below with its kaleidoscope of traditional and ultra-modern buildings, over the treetops of the forest, and up to the towering peaks above. Golden light kisses the ridgeline we’re heading for.

Dolf leads us through the pistes, regaling us with stories, folklore, and history. He takes us through Leukerbad’s pre-industrial history, from small agricultural communities making a living from transhumance – that’s the seasonal movement of animals between summer and winter pastures, a practice still followed to this day. We’ve seen many of the traditional wooden grain barns, known as Raccards. Then our history lesson progresses to the famous Theme, or thermal baths, which have been renowned since Roman times and drew in large numbers of visitors in the 18th and 19th century. Dolf’s knowledge of the area is incredible. There’s something humbling about following in the tracks of someone who knows these mountains like the back of his hand.

Lunch at the Rinderhütte is a welcome break. We sit inside as the wind picks up once again, feeling cosy and sheltered from the weather. Over raclette, coffees, and steaming mugs of hot chocolate, we laugh and share stories. There’s nothing like the camaraderie of the mountains to bring friends closer together.

Afternoon sees us take the Gemmi Cable Car higher still, to a vantage point offering vistas I’ll never forget. The sheer scale of this landscape, dominated by valleys plunging deep into winter shade and the bright highlights of serrated peaks above, makes me feel small – but in the best possible way. Then we cap off the day with some sledging. It’s a bit of light-hearted fun, and a contrast to deep thoughts about our place in the universe, bringing out the child in us all. Whoops of delight echo over the slopes. I’d honestly forgotten how much fun can be had just playing in the snow.

By evening we’re on the road again, heading towards Nendaz-Veysonnaz, located right in the middle of the 4 Vallées. The Mad Mount Hotel will be our home for the night. Modern comfort meets Alpine charm here – the kind of place where you can kick off your boots to relax by the fire. And that’s exactly what we do. As warmth returns after our day in the snow, we start to wonder about the thermal baths next door. But dinner is calling, and we head to the modern wood-panelled interior of Restaurant Madly to fill our bellies with excellent local food.

Nendaz-Veysonnaz

Morning in Nendaz comes with a sense of anticipation. We meet Sabastien, our guide for the day – a British-Swiss man who lives for the variety of adventures to be enjoyed nearby, not least skiing. His enthusiasm infects the whole group as he leads us up to Mont-Fort.

Standing at 3,330m above sea level, the summit of Mont-Fort occupies a princely vantage point high above a complex jumble of mountains and glaciers. This is the highest mountain in the 4 Vallées area. It may be a cliché, but it genuinely feels like the top of the world – and the view is, yes, panoramic too, with the Alps stretching out in every direction, a sea of white beneath an endless blue sky. The Matterhorn, Dent d’Herens, Grand Combin, Mont Blanc, and countless other summits are all clearly visible. A cable car makes this peak far more accessible than you might think, and we’re amazed by the variety of the structures at the top, including the Mont-Fort Zipline – with a departure station at 3,300m, it plunges towards the glacier below, offering a top speed of over 100kph.

We spend our morning exploring this high-altitude playground, testing ourselves on the steeper runs – as well as a more adventurous route with yellow markers that has the feeling of an off-piste descent.

Midway down the slopes, we stop for mountain coffees in a hut. There’s something about a coffee outdoors, with the mountains as your backdrop, that makes everything taste richer, more intense – maybe the physical effort makes it all the more deserved.

The afternoon sees us on the Veysonnaz side. The pistes here are a mix of challenging runs and easy cruisers, each offering its own unique thrill. As the sun begins to dip, casting long shadows across the snow, we make our way to Morgins, in Region Dents du Midi. The region, located in the heart of the international Portes du Soleil ski area, is named after the iconic Dents du Midi mountain range.

At the Hotel Helvetia, our sanctuary for the night, we receive a warm welcome with a touch of luxury – but balanced so well with Swiss tradition. Dinner at Restaurant Les Fontaines Blanches is, once again, absolutely fantastic. What a great representation of local produce and Swiss culture.

Region Dents du Midi

It’s our final day in the Alps, and we begin it with a new adventure: ski touring in Morgins. Laura Cruz, our guide for the day, is as local as they come – she’s called the area home since birth. Her passion for the region, and especially its mountains, shines through with every conversation. She’s a joy to ski with.

The Rando-Parc in Morgins is, we soon learn, the first rando-parc in Valais, established in 2016. It consists of eight marked ski-tour trails in various grades, and is the perfect way to get a taste of ski touring in a safe and enjoyable environment – or it could be used as a training ground. Laura directs us towards Route 2, the initiatory trail on the blue track ‘La Jaune’, punctuated with tutorials for beginners and those who wish to refine their technique. We put our skins on, excited to get moving. It’s a steady and measured climb with a pace allowing us to take in the beauty of our surroundings, and we chat when the gradient allows, making our way up through the forest and above to a summit. The views here are outstanding, looking across to the clearly recognisable seven peaks on the other side of the valley.

At this point, the trails join up with those of the main resort. So, after taking in the views – as well as taking some photos – we de-skin and transition back into downhill mode. Then with whoops of joy we bomb down the slopes to Alpage La Chaux for lunch. This quirky chalet, perched on the slopes where cattle munch flower-rich grass in summer, is the perfect place to satisfy our hunger. Rösti certainly does the job.

The afternoon brings a different kind of experience – a walk with Siberian huskies, led by professional musher Violaine Grau. The dogs scamper and pace all around us, powerful bundles of fur and muscle just waiting to be set loose, excitement palpable. We put on microspikes and attach the dogs to us via harnesses and long leashes. Soon the dogs bound off through the snow, eager to run. ‘Don’t run!’ Violaine calls. ‘You’ll be pulled off your feet.’ We can feel that she’s right. The championship-winning dogs area incredibly strong and want nothing more than to sprint.

As we wander through the snowy forest with our canine companions, we learn about the local history of husky racing – a tradition that remains strong to this day. Violaine’s love for her dogs is obvious. It’s impossible not to be swept up in her enthusiasm.

As the day draws to a close, I find myself reflecting on our winter return to the Valais. The Alps really are timeless, their beauty eternal, their challenges ever-present. But it’s the moments we create here, the experiences we share, that make them truly unforgettable. This winter edition of our journey through the Alps has been a reminder that these mountains always have a way of leaving a mark on your soul, one that endures long after the snow has melted and the seasons have changed.