Field Journal

Austria Uncovered: Zell am See-Kaprun
Written by Daniel Neilson with Chris Davies
Produced in Partnership with Visit Austria

Zell am See-Kaprun is an incomparable blend of glaciers, mountains, and lakes. With that come countless hiking and sports opportunities.

Explore the diversity of the mountains’ flora and fauna, the clear waters of Lake Zell, and the glacier on the 3,203m-high Kitzsteinhorn on the edge of Hohe Tauern National Park. Then admire the panoramic view from the Schmittenhöhe across an array of 3,000m peaks – all 30 of them.

Where the locals play: Filmmaker Chris Davies

‘Zell am See-Kaprun, deep in the Austrian Alps, is an incredible location for summer adventurers. But for me, the true thrill isn’t always found rigidly following an itinerary. Sure, Lake Zell is perfect for a refreshing dip, and reaching the top of the Schmittenhöhe on a mountain bike is undeniably exhilarating. However, Zell am See-Kaprun’s magic lies in the unexpected discoveries that blossom when you embrace a little detour.

‘The well-maintained trails around Zell am See-Kaprun are fantastic, but sometimes I crave a path less travelled. One such adventure involved a local’s recommendation: a historical route through the rolling hills behind the town. Not only did I find myself surrounded by breathtaking scenery, but I also stumbled upon a moss-covered stone archway, a remnant of the forgotten medieval village. That unplanned detour became a journey through time as well as terrain. And to top it all off, the route eventually led me to the charming Pinzgauer Hütte lodge. There I feasted on a hearty lunch of local Zell am See-Kaprun specialities – think succulent sausages, fluffy Kaiserschmarrn (shredded pancake), and rich apple strudel – all while soaking in the mountain views. Refuelled and recharged, I continued my hike, feeling even more grateful for the unexpected detour.

‘Heading off on an unplanned adventure is also great for taking a cooling dip. While the designated lidos in Zell am See-Kaprun are well worth a visit, there’s a magic to finding your own hidden cove. Following a whisper of a secret waterfall from a friendly shop owner, I embarked on a short hike through a dense forest. The reward? A secluded pool beneath a cascading waterfall, perfect for a refreshing and private dip.

‘Renting an e-bike opens up a whole new world of exploration too. One afternoon, I set out with the loose goal of reaching a village nestled in the mountains. The beauty of the e-bike is that it allows you to scale steeper inclines with ease, making off-road detours less daunting. This particular detour led me down a forgotten path through wildflower meadows, culminating in a surprising and extensive panorama I wouldn’t have found otherwise.

‘For those on mountain bikes, a detour to Zell am See-Kaprun’s exhilarating freeride mountain-bike trails is a must. The majestic Kitzsteinhorn Glacier offers a starting point for three epic descents. The Geißstein Trail, Wüstlau Trail, and Bachler Trail cater to different skill levels, all promising a rush of wind in your hair and amazing Alpine scenery. Imagine carving your way down flowy singletrack, peppered with jumps and drops, all against the backdrop of snow-capped peaks. Just remember, take on these trails with the proper gear and skills – they’re for experienced riders only.

‘Sometimes the greatest detours come in the form of people. A wrong turn on a bike ride led me to strike up a conversation with a local farmer tending his sheep. He not only pointed me back in the right direction but also invited me for a cup of fresh apple cider, and regaled me with stories of his life in the mountains. This chance encounter added a whole new layer to my Zell am See-Kaprun experience.

‘Next time you find yourself in this special corner of Austria, remember, the most rewarding discoveries often lie just beyond the planned route. In the thrill of the unexpected. Take a detour, embrace the adventure, and see where the mountain road less travelled takes you. You might just find yourself standing in awe beside a turquoise waterfall, sharing stories with a local under a canopy of wildflowers, or carving your way down an unsurpassed mountain-bike trail.’

Experience Lebensgefühl in Zell am See-Kaprun

Zell am See-Kaprun has everything. Lakes, mountains, and a glacier. Here the tourism experts explain how to live like a local in Zell am See-Kaprun.

‘What a holiday backdrop: the contrast between the snow-covered glacier, the deep blue glistening of the lake, and the colourful blooming Alpine pastures of the Schmittenhöhe. And right in the middle of it all are the main actors, our guests, who experience unforgettable moments between the glacier, mountain, and lake.

‘Zell am See, at 750m above sea level, inspires with natural spectacles, sport opportunities, excursion destinations, traditions, and a modern lifestyle. Alpine enjoyment, paired with typical Austrian hospitality, ensures feel-good moments on the lakeshore or in the mountains.

‘Sustainability runs like a green thread through all areas in Zell am See-Kaprun; it’s a natural paradise. To ensure that this remains the case in the future, numerous measures are taken in the area of sustainability. For example, more than 80 per cent of CO2 emissions during a holiday are caused by the journey to and from the destination, so in order to reduce these CO2 emissions, Zell am See-Kaprun offers numerous services for sustainable travel by train. You can also give your car a break at the destination. Thanks to the Pinzgau Mobility Card, you can travel free of charge on all public transport throughout the summer.’

Facts about the region

400km of hiking trails
Between the gentle hillside meadows of the Pinzgau to the rugged walls of the Hohe Tauern, there are endless trails across the area. The Hohe Tauern Panorama Trail is 275km long and passes through the Zell am See-Kaprun region.

200km of cycle routes
Gravel bikers, in particular, will find three full-day trails, while road bikers take on the challenging mountain passes. Mountain bikers, meanwhile, tackle the freeride lines on the Kitzsteinhorn.

Schmittenhöhe and Kitzsteinhorn cable cars
The two cable cars operate through the summer. One leaves Zell am See to the 1,965m-high Schmittenhöhe and another from Kaprun to Maiskogel and Kitzsteinhorn (including the Gipfelwelt 3000).

40 huts
There are approximately 40 huts and mountain restaurants in Zell am See-Kaprun, serving local specialities and many offering a place to sleep.

Mountain Experiences

Kitzsteinhorn Explorer Tour
The guided, family-friendly Kitzsteinhorn Explorer Tour takes you through four climate zones. Accompanied by a ranger, you will start in the valley and then take several cable cars uphill to the glacier. Here, the guide will explain how glacier ice is formed and point out the local haunts for golden eagles and other high-altitude flora and fauna.

Gipfelwelt 3000
Gipfelwelt 3000 on the Kitzsteinhorn Glacier offers remarkable views over the glaciated peaks of the Hohe Tauern, including Austria’s highest mountain, the Großglockner. The cable cars carry you more than 3,000m to the top of Kitzsteinhorn. The ‘Top of Salzburg’ viewing platform at 3,029m offers some of the best Alpine views anywhere. At the Gipfelwelt 3000 you’ll also find Austria’s highest-situated movie theatre, Cinema 3000 and a mystical tunnel that is the National Park Gallery. Along it, you’ll find six info stations about history, nature and technology in the Hohe Tauern.

Hiking the Schmittenhöhe
The Schmittenhöhe summit is accessible by cable car from Zell am See and is an amazing place to start a high-altitude walk, a challenging summit hike, or a gentle guided herbal tour (see below for details). The family-friendly high-altitude promenade has viewing telescopes along the route.

Höhenburg Climbing Arena
The Höhenburg via ferrata arena offers three levels of via ferrata, including the Mooser-Mandl 107 route, traversing a 107m-high dam wall at the Mooserboden reservoir. There are two other via ferrata routes of different levels.

Herb-tasting hike
Join Fredi, the Schmitten herb expert, along the high-altitude promenade on the Schmittenhöhe to forage for meadow herbs. In the workshop afterwards, you’ll learn how to make herb butter and a herb dumpling.

Mountain Huts

Sonnkogel on the Schmittenhöhe
To sample Pinzgau cuisine, Sonnkogel on the Schmittenhöhe is where to head. It has its own herb garden, and the cook is an expert in using the best foraged ingredients. Don’t miss the wild herb lemonade.

Enzianhütte
This traditional hut is well known for home-smoked bacon and Kaiserschmarrn – created by mountain innkeeper Tom. It’s a perfect place to stop on the Ronachkopf mountain-biking trail. There’s even an e-bike charging station here.

Gipfel Restaurant Kitsteinhorn
Gipfel Restaurant is Salzburg’s highest restaurant at 3,029m. It serves regional classic and fine-dining cuisine. And the views looking out the window are incredible.

Hiking Routes

Alexander Enzinger Trail
This 15.4km hike from the Kitzsteinhorn to the Maiskogel takes around six hours. It starts with a ride up to the Alpincenter on the Kitzsteinhorn cable cars. Then it’s a hike along the Alexander Enzinger path to the Maiskogel. Return from Maiskogelbahn to the centre of Kaprun.

Maurerkogel to Schmittenhöhe guided tour
The Maurerkogel is Schmittenhöhe’s neighbouring mountain. This ridge walk offers incredible views of the Kalkalpen range, including the Wilder Kaiser, the Steinernes Meer range, and the Hochkönig. It’s 11km long and takes around four hours.

Maiskogel hut tour
This easy 4.7km hike crosses Alpine pastures linking mountain huts. From the centre of Kaprun, take the lift ride on the MK Maiskogelbahn to the Maiskogel mountain terminal at 1,570m. From there you can link up the Unterbergalm, the Alpengasthaus Glocknerblick, and the Maiskogel Alm Ranch.

Cycling Routes

Zell am See-Kaprun becomes your biking region in Austria as soon as spring arrives. You can reach high vantage points by mountain bike or e-bike, stopping in cosy huts for local food along the way. Road cyclists discover the region’s mountain passes in search of flow, while mountain bikers hunt out the singletrack trails and freeride lines of the Kitzsteinhorn.

10D Hochsconnbergrunde
The Hochsonnbergrunde is a diverse 26km route that starts out along the sunny side of Piesendorf, known for its rich flora. The path from Hochsonnbergalm to Pinzgauer Hütte offers amazing views of ancient forest and lush meadows. It’s rated a ‘red’ route.

Seeblick Gravel Tour
The gravel bike routes around Zell am See-Kaprun are amazing. The Seeblick Gravel Tour
is 37.6km long and has an ascent of 857m. It starts at Zell am See train station, then heads along the Tauern Cycle Tour before climbing up to Ponyhofalm and heading down to Bruck on a forest road.

Maiskogel Tour
This moderately difficult 17.3km round tour on Kaprun’s local mountain, the Maiskogel, takes in numerous farms and mountain inns, including one at the Maiskogelbahn mountain station. For a bigger challenge, head up to the Glocknerblick mountain inn.

Events

Ironman 70.3 (September 1st, 2024)
This triathlon includes 1.9km of swimming in the crystal-clear Lake Zell, 90km of cycling on a road bike – including a climb up to the Filzen Saddle at 1,280m – and 21.1km of running alongside Lake Zell.

Großglockner Ultra Trail (July 25th–28th, 2024)
This stunning 110km route circles Austria’s highest mountain, the Großglockner, and through Hohe Tauern National Park. Runners will climb 6,500m and pass 14 glaciers. There are several shorter routes too.

Spartan European Championship Race Zell am See-Kaprun (September 6th–8th, 2024)
Zell am See-Kaprun Spartan Trifecta Weekend 2024 includes three races, plus one for kids. The longest is a 21km race with 30 obstacles.